(Backup) Hell Mouth to St Ives: talk about wind!

I was exhausted last night (Tuesday) so didn't get around to conpleting my blog. 

If you have read yesterdays (Monday) blog you will know that Sarah's arrival brought with it heavy rain and gale force winds. Last night the motorhome was rocking and rolling all night long (not the result of any naughty business either). Reports of wind gusts up to 50mph through the night meant that none of us got much sleep. However we woke to a dry morning albeit still very blustery: forecast reports a mere 40mph. After a slow start we headed to the bus station to catch the A4: Atlantic coast service, to Hell Mouth (colin and i started from Hell Mouth on Saturday to do the backward walk to Perrenporth (our mammoth walk)). We started walking at about 1'ish. 

As soon as we were on the headland the strength of the wind made itself felt. Gusts knocking you off balance meaning re-adjusting your balance and footing. Before stopping for an early lunch we walked to Godrevy point, where the lighthouse is located on an island: a beautiful setting. Peter Shelton, who brought to my attention the following words by Erica Eigen:

I wanna marry a lighthouse keeper and keep him company. We could polish his lamp by the light of day, so ships at night can find their way!

After a wonderful lunch in the cafe at the car park, we headed out across the dunes accompanied by the wind. After about .25 miles we decided to head down onto the beach (the book gives no name for this so i will call it Gwithian beach or windy beach). I think i mentioned in a previous blog how hard it is to walk on soft sand: its even harder in a 40mph side wind, whilst being sand blasted. 

After about .75 miles, we veered away from the beach in land to negotiate the river Hayle estuary: road walking. Once on the St Ives side the last stretch was mostly up and down, via narrow, vegitated paths running parallel to the railway line. This last bit seemed to go on and on and on... during this stretch we passed a couple who stated 'blally hell, you've walked a long way... we sat in our car at Godrevy point watching you battling the wind'. 

After13.75miles we arrived in St Ives: 5.5 hours later (not including the hours lunch).

Despite the high miles, todays walk should have been easy, but battling the wind made it really hard. We headed straight to a harbour pub recommended to Sarah: the Sloop Inn. It was a lovely old, fishing pub, very busy and for a good reason, the food (mostly fish based) was amazing. Good hearty food, just what you needed after such a hard day. With our tummies full and a drop of alcohol, we were all ready for a quick shower (get the sand out of our ears) and an early night. 

Moment of the day:

During the last stretch of our walk, we got talking to a guy also backpacking. In fact he described himself as a 'a bit of a tramp': he was wild camping while walking from Weston Supermare to Exeter. Last night (Monday: gusts of very high winds) he pitched his tent at Hell Mouth: he described having to hold onto his tent to stop it blowing away. Although dramatic it was a very funny story - he had to set up camp further in-land behind a hawthorn bush, but by this time he was wet and cold. After recounting his story, he told us his name was 'Seaside Steve', sold post cards and entertained. Seaside was also carrying a homemade didgeridoo (made out of 42mm waste pipe and different coloured electrical tape (aboriginal colours)). In thanks for giving him a bounty bar and banana (i am now known as a 'trail angel'), he gave us a tune on his waste pipe... i mean didgeridoo. He was very good, such a lovely bloke. Sadly he only had one post card left so we took a photo of it instead (see photo). 

 

Fitbit recorded: 38,271 steps, 16.71 miles and 238 flights of stairs. 

After todays walk you should see my feet: